ART LIFE IN BOHEMIA.

FRAÃœLEIN FANNY says, that if we want to
find a place to make studies in, we must go
to Herrneskretchen.  Fraülein Fanny is an
authority.  She knows all the painters in
Dresden. She knows the town and twenty
miles around it, equally well. Some one
recommended the Weisser Hirsch to us.
Fraülein Fanny said, "What stoopid peoples
to tell an artist to go at Weisser Hirsch.
There is there only pine trees and a large
view!" No, she decided for Bella and
myself that we must go to Bohemia.  She
would go with us, she said, and engage our
rooms at lower prices than we could get them
for.  We arranged to meet her at the boat-
landing under the Brühlsche-Terrasse, and
thence steam up the Elbe to the little
Bohemian village the Fraülein had so praised.
Nothing the good soul so loved as a bit of
management.  She was born to be prime
minister in the new régime of Lady Suffrage
and Lady Members.  After buying our
tickets, we found her impatiently awaiting
our coming.

"You are late," she exclaimed. "We
should not become the best seats on the
boat.  Now make haste to buy your tickets.
Buy second class; they are so good as
first."

"We've already bought first class," we
said.

At this, Fraülein Fanny's economic ideas
were shocked.  We must go back and
exchange them.  We hesitated, and she took
command of us peremptorily, and marched
us back to the billet vurkauf, where she
volubly explained to the clerk that we, being
foreigners, did not know what we were
about, and he must give us second class
tickets and ten groschens (one shilling)
difference.  The smiling clerk could not do
it.  It was not the custom. Fraülein Fanny
expostulated till the ringing of the boat bell
cut short her discourse, and then she dashed
out of the office, exclaiming, in great wrath,
as we meekly followed to gain the boat,
that "only in Saxony, mean Saxony," would
such a thing have occurred. The Fraülein
is not Saxon.  She is from a distant northern
province.  As she had a second class ticket
we accompanied her, but her manœuvre
had lost us the coveted seats in the shadow
of the engine, and we had to betake
ourselves forward to the side seats, raise our
parasols for awnings, and have the full
benefit of the neighbourhood of the market
women returning with unsold cheese and
sour-krout, which, under the warm rays of
a July sun, soon made our places disagreeable.
Fraülein Fanny is literary. She
writes books.  When we complained of the
disagreeable smells, she told us that as
artists we should not mind any little annoyance
that enabled us to study human character.

"Look at these peoples.  They belongs
to a different class to which you have
observed.  The sons and daughters of the
earth.  Were Germany one free land,
they would arise till the heights of Liberty.
Now they are oppressed and low."

We were sailing up the Elbe, and I called
the Fraülein's attention to the sunny bright
morning, and the blue hills that cradle the
winding of the lovely Elbe. I asked how
long before we would reach Herrneskretchen?
"About three hours," she said.

As we steamed on, after stopping at little
villages here and there, our annoyances
were lessened: also our opportunities for
the study of human character, for as the
gang plank was drawn to the shore, and
the vessel sidled up to the little landings,