approached, I perceived that the hair which
showed under her head-dress was black, while the
tails were of a light brown.
To return to our reception. We were led to
the divan at the end of the room, where two or
three of the women were lounging, and where
a fat shabby elderly lady (as a general rule all
the elderly ladies were fat and shabby), with a
good countenance, addressed herself to us. My
companion speaking Arabic, with which most of
the women are acquainted, though their own
language is Turkish, and this being an
accomplishment which I had not attained to, the
burden of conversation fell upon her. While
she and the old lady conversed, all the others
looked on and listened, occasionally making
remarks to each other in Turkish—on the
subject, as it seemed, of their discourse.
Meantime pipes and coffee were brought us by two
young slaves, better dressed than the generality
of their mistresses, with whom they seemed on
very easy terms. The pipes were long chibouks,
having amber mouthpieces, ornamented with
diamonds; and the tobacco was so mild that I
found it rather agreeable to smoke. The coffee,
which was very strong and very sweet, and without
milk, was served scalding hot, in tiny china cups,
without saucers, but inserted in sarfs, which are
precisely like egg-cups; these are in universal
use in Egypt, as well with Europeans as with
Turks. The common sort are made in clay or
brass; the better, in silver filigree; and some of
the finest are of magnificent materials and
workmanship. Those on the present occasion
were of open-work silver, with medallions of
flowers in coloured enamels. And here I may
remark that, throughout, the manners of these
women were precisely those of children: children
who lived a life of perpetual idleness, who were,
for the most part, considerably bored thereby,
and who were pleased and amused to get hold
of anything in the way of novelty, and disposed
to be kind and courteous to the strangers who
brought them a new sensation.
The old lady having asked innumerable questions
as to our names, ages, families, and so forth,
there commenced an examination of some trinkets
we wore. A gold bracelet with little golden balls
hanging from it having especially attracted the
dame's attention, she clasped it on her own
wrist, and, having contemplated it with considerable complacency, calmly requested my friend
to make her a backshish thereof; but the
request being declined, on the score that the
bracelet was a keepsake, she returned it, somewhat disappointed, but not the least abashed at
the refusal. Meanwhile, innumerable women,
whom we had not seen at first, came and went,
gliding about silently in yellow or embroidered
slippers: though some wore leather boots,
apparently of European make, but embroidered up
the fronts with gold.
Presently, when we were beginning rather to
wonder what was to be done next, there was a
little stir in the room, and in walked a rather
short and stout old lady, whose toilet was by no
means remarkable for either elegance or tidiness,
and whose head was bound up in two dark cotton
pocket-handkerchiefs of the very commonest
kind—one round her forehead, the other tied
under her chin, gipsy-fashion, the corner hanging
down behind, while a small interregnum of
extremely unkempt hair was visible between the
two. This lady, whose graciousness and dignity
were in no wise affected by her state of dishabille,
made us welcome in a way that showed she
was the chief personage of the house, and indeed
her manner was not without a certain ease and
courtesy. She was, I believe, the mother of the
defunct Selim Pasha, and grandmother of the
bridegroom, consequently mistress of the harem.
During all this time we had not the slightest
idea of the programme of the entertainment, how
long we were expected to stay, or what we were
expected to do. This was, as may be supposed, a
slight source of embarrassment, especially as
the conversation began most palpably to flag.
The striking up of some music—the musicians
being invisible—was a little relief. Most singular
music it was. First, came a dull monotonous
sound, as of tambourines without bells being
struck in rhythm, first with the knuckles, then
with the palm of the hand. Presently, followed
the voices of eunuchs and women rising in
one long vibrating shrill cry on a single note,
beginning softly, swelling by degrees into a
ringing tremulous thrilling treble which had
an almost unearthly sound, then ceasing by
degrees: the tambourine accompaniment forming
all the while a sort of background which still
added to the effect. This, we were told, was
called a fantasia, but I must own that, singular
as the performance was, there was an extremely
limited amount of fancy expended on it.
Twilight now falling, lights were brought, and
we were beginning to consult on the propriety
of taking our departure, when the lady in lilac
and silver returned and invited us to follow her
into an adjoining room.
Not at all knowing why or wherefore, we
obeyed, and were introduced into a small apartment
with a good deal of gilding and blazing
with light, where a number of women were
assembled, most of them standing. At first,
in the crowd and the sudden glare of light—for
the outer room, probably with design, was very
dimly illuminated—I distinguished nothing in
particular; but, on advancing a few steps, I
suddenly became aware of what appeared to me
at the first glance some glittering image or
idol, seated in a corner of the room on a high
triangular divan of state, covered with crimson
satin embroidered in gold.
This was the bride.
Immediately, gilt and satin-covered chairs
were placed for us, within a yard of the divan,
and directly in front of it; and the invitation,
"Shoof aroussa" (Look at the bride), was given.
I have seldom experienced so singular an
impression as that which seized me on obeying the
injunction.
There she sat, a girl of sixteen, very beautiful,
rich in the full possession of her woman's charms,
but no woman. For the time being, she was
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