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His Majesty the Shah, and that by reason of
them, and the fulness of the King's bounty,
the servants of the Shah's court, the centre of
equity aud justice, are commanded to be diligent
in paying the above-named high in rank
every tribute of distinction and respect.

"The Secretaries of State have received
orders to register this in our everlasting

"Given in the month of Seffer, in the year of
Hejira 1264 (January, 1848)."



START with as little luggage as possible. A
carpet-bag, with a coat-case at bottom, is
enough for any man, and a small tin case to
hold a uniform, which is an absolute necessity
to a man setting out on the grand tour. For
the rest, a plain black morning coat, with
grey or brown trousers and waistcoat, makes
the best travelling dress. A black coat, some
light dress waistcoat, and one pair of "dress
trousers, is an ample quantity of outer
garments; six shirts, the same number of
pairs of socks, two neck and six pocket-
handkerchiefs, and a rolling Russian-leather dressing
case; one pair of boots on, and one off
(elastic kid dress-boots pack best), and a pair
of slippers; a Murray's Guide Book, a case of
Mordan's pencils, and a sketch-book; an
India-rubber bath, a sponge, and some soap,
with a strong purse, is the most complete kit
necessary. All the rest is more bother than
it is worth. A traveller can get his washing
done at any of the great hotels in Europe
during the night, and while he is asleep; as
his things get shabby, let him buy new ones,
and give the old away; for, on all the railways
on the continent, luggage is charged
for almost by the ounce, and a new coat may
be bought for half the cost of carrying an
old one about for a week. A good cloak is
best for travelling in winter; an oil-skin cape
may be useful in summer, but do not carry
either about if you do not want them. In
Belgium and Prussia you may send a small
portmanteau or carpet-bag cheapest through
the post-office, and it is sure to arrive safely,
which is not the case if sent by rail or
diligence, or even if taken with you, and the
luxury of being altogether free from baggage
in a railway is a thing not to be sneered at.

By all means let all who can afford it have
a good travelling servant, if they wish to enjoy
a tour, and have all the trouble of it taken off
their hands. There is no denying, however,
that it is a great expense; that is to say, it
will more than double the expenses of a single
man. A man who means to allow himself
two pounds a day can afford it very well.

Next to a servant, the best and most
necessary companion I know of is Murray's
Guide-Book. The care and excellence with
which these books are compiled is really
wonderful; but they have one faultthey
contain too much in one volume, and are
too large. I should like to see little portable
guide-books, made like pocket-books,
with blank leaves for remarks and a pocket
for passports, so as not to overcrowd a
traveller's pocket and make it stick out as
if it held a boiled round of beef. Why not
divide each guide-book into parts in this way,
all fitting into a leather case, so that one
might take out one at a time; every separate
country, almost, might have a little pocket-
book to itself, and Mr. Murray would, find
his new edition go off like wildfire.

Travellers to the East, and places where
public conveyances are not always to be
had, should provide themselves with a
good European saddle and bridle at the
last place on their way where such a thing
can be got, and not lug it along with them
from England. Plenty are to be got at
Constantinople, Malta, Gibraltar, Cairo, wherever
a man means to begin travelling on his own
hook. In the East a good servant is almost
indispensable, but avoid an Englishman
unless you can completely rely on him.
English servants are the most womanly set of
grumblers under the sun, and are in constant
fear of being eaten up by savages. Maltese
are good fellows for travelling in the East,
but they are, scandal apart, a terrible set of
rogues. If you don't know your servant
very well, take care always to have his passport
and certificates of character, &c., in your
possession, and do not let him know where you
keep them. Never give a Maltese his own
way either, unless you see good reason for it.
They are as full of tricks as a pantomime.
Choose some active fellow who has been over
the ground before and not much over thirty, or
he will very likely knock up, for travelling in
the East wants sound health and a light
heart. A good travelling servant should have
an inexhaustible genius for invention, be
able to clean guns, pitch tents, mend broken
harness, have a call for cookery, and be a
merry pleasant-tempered fellow, with the
strength of a Welch pony; a sort of fellow
who does not know what a difficulty means,
and can bargain and wrangle like Andrew
Fairservice, but with better humour; a surly
servant is a weary dog.

Never set out for a long ride in the East
without a flask of cold tea made without
sugar or milk. It is the best and most
refreshing tipple ever made, and may be drank
with safety when cold water would be
dangerous. Cold fowls and hard eggs are the
best eatables to take in the East, and
sometimes in Spain and Greece; but it is the most
stupid and snobbish thing possible to carry
provisions anywhere upon a high-road.  If,
however, you are too much pressed for time
to allow of any halt at all on the road, a few
biscuits and a little fruit is the best and
cleanest thing to carry. I have also found
half a pint of port wine, boiled up with
isinglass into a jelly and taken a (wooden)

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